Bonaire's Wild Side by Jeep: Boka Onima, Playa Frans and More

Most visitors stick to the calm west coast. But Bonaire has another face: wind-blasted cliffs, giant cacti, wild donkeys and empty dirt roads. Cruise lines sell guided 4x4 tours of this side of the island. With your own Jeep, you can explore it at your own pace.

Why you need the right car

Many of the best spots are reached by unpaved roads full of potholes and loose rock. Some inland roads through the kunuku (the countryside) are only passable with high ground clearance, especially after rain. That's why only our Jeep Wrangler goes on these roads. Our Trailblazer and RAV4 stay on paved roads.

Boka Onima

On the northeast coast, a short drive from Rincon, the dirt road leads to Boka Onima. Legend says this is where the island's first inhabitants came ashore. Nearby you'll find rock drawings made by the Caquetío, Bonaire's original inhabitants, around 500 years ago. The waves here are spectacular, with a blowhole close by. Wear sturdy shoes: the coral rock is sharp.

Playa Frans

Playa Frans sits on the edge of Washington Slagbaai National Park, but you don't need a park ticket to get there. The catch: the last seven kilometers are a bumpy dirt track that really requires high ground clearance. Your reward is a quiet bay with good snorkeling and lots of birds. There's no mobile signal and no facilities, so bring everything you need.

More stops for your route

• Rincon: the island's oldest village, and a good place to start. Visit the Cadushy Distillery for a taste of the local cactus liqueur.
• Seru Largu: a viewpoint over Kralendijk and Klein Bonaire, reached by a winding road.
• The east coast cactus fields: huge cacti, iguanas and wild donkeys. Stop often and look around.
• Lac Bay: end your day in the calm, turquoise water on the southeast side.

Tips for the dirt roads

• Drive slowly. Potholes are deeper than they look.
• Avoid unpaved roads after heavy rain: they can turn into mud.
• The east coast is for watching, not swimming. The waves and currents are strong.
• Download an offline map: in the north, mobile coverage is patchy.
• Bring water, snacks and a full tank.
• Leave nothing of value in the car when you walk away from it.

Ready to go off the beaten track? Book the Jeep via WhatsApp. Lynden will happily mark his favorite spots on your map.